The photo with the Bush Bumper and the Camper is the before photo. I put both of them on after buying the truck from Jay. Otherwise, the truck is just as I bought it. Jay told me that the truck came from Arizona.
Click on a picture to view a fullsize version
I have around 500 hours into just the custom bodywork. I did all of the work, mechanical (except the Door Hinges - my brother did them), electrical, and customizing, myself. I did not do the finish body work or painting.
Engine: 1965 Vintage 200 cubic-inch.
Modified with a Clifford 272H cam, Rhoades lifters, Port Divider welded
into Exhaust Ports 3 and 4, Header, home Ported, re-jetted 1940 model
carb from a 240 with homemade adapter, cable
linkage from a 240.
Future changes will include swapping on the Head from a 250 (using the Adjustable Rockers from a 144 and the Push Rods from a 292 V8) and the addition of tri-power in the form of three 1-barrel carbs on a progressive linkage.
Ignition: MSD 6A multi-spark ignition with a Blaster II coil.
Future changes will include switching to a Jacobs Ignition and, possibly, a Pertronix module.
Exhaust: Header to 2” tubing. The muffler is a turbo type
Transmission: Standard three-on-tree.
Future change will be to a second generation 4-speed. This gives an overdrive in fourth gear.
Mileage: I got about 17 mpg with, or without, the camper.
Wheels and Tires: The tires are Yokohama 205 x 14 all around on 6-inch rims. The hubcaps are from J.C. Whitney.
Radiator: I reworked a Radiator from a van with a 240 by first removing the inlet and outlet and then soldering a sheet of Brass over the openings. I then removed the inlet and outlet from the stock radiator, opened some new holes in the 240 radiator in the proper locations for stock hoses, and soldered the stock inlet/outlet to the larger radiator. Then, I drilled new mounting holes and installed it. I also added an overflow catch from a late model Ford car.
Gauges: Full gauges have eliminated the idiot lights. I also added a Digital Tach and a Wiper Delay in an overhead console I fabricated. I made a matching wood insert for the steering column bracket and dash.
Future changes will include a full Digital Dash.
Cruise Control: J.C.Whitney unit with the control module mounted to the Turn Signal Switch Lever.
Master Cylinder: 1967 Dual Master Cylinder.
Suspension: Urethane Bushings all the way around, re-arched Springs for a 3-onch drop, one extra leaf added to each corner. Urethane Bushing were also installed on the Sway Bar.
Future changes will be to install 240 Springs up front with the Eyes reversed. I also have a 3-inch drop front axle to put in when I change the springs.
Shocks: I installed 4-ways intended for a 1975 Toyota Land Cruiser. These were swapped front-to-rear to fit.
Fog Lights: J.C. Whitney, upgraded with 100 Watt Halogen bulbs. I added a heavy-duty relay and 30 Amp Circuit Breaker for this circuit. The control switch is in the Overhead Console and is illuminated when the Fog Lights are on. Switch color is Green.
Driving Light: Same as the Fog Lights. Switch color is Yellow.
Head Lights: Converted to Halogen with replaceable bulbs. The bulbs were upgraded to 100/55 Watt Hi/Low.
Front Marker Lights: I used 1979 Tornado Marker Lights swapped side-to-side (left-to-right). I added an extra socket and bulb on each side so that there are Park and Turn Lights in each.
Front Cornering Lights: I added an extra contact into the Turn Signal Switch with the hot lead running through a relay. Then I tapped off of the Headlight Circuit to turn this relay on and off. This way, the Cornering Lights only work with the Turn Signals if the Headlights are on.
Rear Marker Lights: 1981 Tornado, also swapped side-to-side. Same changes as the Front Markers.
Reverse Lights: J.C. Whitney. I again added a relay but this time I used a 10 Amp Circuit Breaker. Same switching as in the Fog/Driving Lights Bulbs are 50 Watt Halogen. Control Indicator Light color is White.
Circuit Breakers: All Fuses were replaced with equivalent rated Circuit Breakers. All of these are mounted on a plug-in board and are driver accessible. The plug–in board is mounted to the Dash Skirt.
Inside Door Handles: 1983 Honda Accord with homemade linkage. I filled the holes on the doors for the old pop-up lock buttons.
Outside Door Handles: 1983 Honda Accord with homemade adapters, swapped left-to-right in order to change the direction of the action. These have been reworked so that the Ford key works them. I picked these handles because they are flush mounts and the key slot is in the middle of the rear edge, not in the corner – less chance of scratching the paint fumbling for the key slot at night. I didn’t want electric locks for fear of a dead battery locking me out.
Armrests: Some kind of Buick. Sorry, I forget the year and model.
Outside Mirrors: Electrically operated, aerodynamic mirrors from a 1983 Plymouth Sapparo are molded into the body. The controls are mounted to the Doghouse lid and the wires go through an extra piece of Heater Hose to form a flexible cable. This protects the cable from the heat in the engine compartment.
Door Glass: The Door Vent Windows have been eliminated and the opening partially filled for one-piece door glass. These windows are electrically operated with the controls being mounted with those for the Outside Mirrors.
Back and Corner Glass: The glass in these windows were removed and tinted using two layers of plastic film. They were then re-installed using new Dennis Carpenter weather-stripping.
Windshield: Replaced with after market Shaded (Tinted with Dark Top Band) using new Dennis Carpenter weather-stripping. (I need another one as this one is cracked. Any help out there?)
Gas Cap: Hidden, locking cap.
Door Hinges: Reworked with Bronze Bushings and Stainless Steel Pins. The weather-stripping on the doors was replaced with new from Dennis Carpenter.
Upholstery and Seats: I found these seats at a swap meet and then got covers from J.C. Whitney. The entire dash is padded and covered a’la vinyl roofs and then the Top Pad and Padded Glove Box Door were added. The Headliner is covered in the same manner as the dash. The Glove Box Liner is a Dennis Carpenter replacement unit. I also added a Dash Skirt. All Heater Controls were moved from the Floor Heater to the Dash. I then made a removable console to surround the heater and hide a CD player and 12 CD’s.
Bed Liner: Custom Wood Bed Liner reinforced with pour-on-place expanding foam.
Tailgate: The recessed area was filled using Red Plastic onto which I panted the Ford oval with script lettering. This was done on the inside of the plastic in reverse blackout lettering and lights up as a Third Tail/Brake Light. The upper left corner reads “ Itz’a ”, the upper right says “ ’64 ”, and the center is the Ford oval. The oval is close to 2 feet long and very visible at night.
Future changes are to go to a center pull latch with key and eliminate the hooks and chains. I hope to match the Honda Door Handles on the front doors.
Stereo: The Stereo and Equalizer/Booster are in the overhead console. An electronic Dakota Digital Antenna is hidden in the right outside mirror housing. I didn’t want to drill a hole in the body.
Sun Roof: Two-piece Sun Roof.
Future changes are to remove the Sun Roof and fill the hole in. (Condensation in the winter drips off of it onto the driver and passenger; otherwise I’d keep it.)
Paint: 1993-1994 Ford Metallic Teal.
Other Future Changes: Front Air Damn with Flexible Skirt, Larger Gas Tank, Windshield Washer, Oil Cooler, Remote Filter, Front Disc Brakes, Courtesy Lights for illumination with the doors open (with remote on/off switch for having the doors open for long periods), and some graphics.